Bermudaful Edition

Soundtrack: Kokomo by the Beach Boys

Aruba, Jamaica, oh I want to take you to
Bermuda, Bahama, come on pretty mama

Key Largo, Montego, baby why don't we go
Oh I want to take you down to
Kokomo, we'll get there fast and then we'll take it slow
That's where we want to go, way down in Kokomo

The holidays are a big travel time for us, as many of you know. It's usually slower at work and with the extra days off, it became an easier time if year for us to travel internationally. In 2020 we went to Hawaii since Europe was still closed to Americans. So this year we were ready to get back on track and introduce Isla to one of our favorite traditions, Christmas in Europe.

Unfortunately, life had other plans, as usual. I had booked us a trip to Germany before Isla was even born (no they won't let you add an infant to your ticket until they have a name and birth date, I asked!).

When November came around, I realized I really needed to plan out of trip. As soon as I finished and started getting really excited, the Omicron variant picked up and Europe was surging like crazy. So we decided to pivot. We looked at Switzerland, Montreal...I was all kinds of stressed and bummed. Caleb mentioned Bermuda, as he does often because it's been on his list, and so a few weeks before I decided we would just commit and made the switch!

There aren't any direct flights to Bermuda from Chicago, so while it wasn't Europe, it would take us just about as long with connections to get there. I was a bit worried about having two flights each way, but by this point, we were doing it! 

We were required to get negative COVID tests within 3 days of arrival, which made us feel better about going. But with the new variant and the holidays, there was all the sudden huge lines at the COVID testing sites! Luckily after a few tries, we found a place that was line-free and easy!

Day 0- Friday, December 24, 2021

Adding this day because after I changed our flights, I realized we had a 7AM flight on Christmas morning (Germany was a red-eye Christmas night). Isla won't remember her first Christmas, but we still wanted to make it special. So Christmas Eve morning and day we celebrated her first Christmas at home- just the 3 of us.

She opened gifts, Caleb made banana pancakes, we went for walks, made gingerbread cookies and it was warm enough to sit outside and have a Bonfire (probably not going to be able to do that again!). Then we packed up and went to bed early. It was a wonderful day!

First Christmas!

New toys!

Family jammies!

Banana pancakes, eggs and bacon breakfast

Family walk

That smile though!

Warm enough to have a fire!

Making gingerbread cookies!

Day 1: Saturday, December 25, 2021

We were working on sleep training Isla. Something we started a few times and were struggling to stay consistent with. I planned to start fresh in the new year because of the trip, but a week before the trip I couldn't take it anymore and started up again. She was doing really well and had only woken up once that night when I had to wake her at 4am to head to the airport. Thankfully, she was all smiles!

We ordered an Uber the night before since it was an early departure on a holiday. We got to the airport no problem and were surprised it was so busy. With the new variant, sounded like airlines were down staff and many flights were canceled. Isla had her customary full diaper from the car ride and so we cleaned her all up post security. Luckily, we were running on time, though the flight to Charlotte was full so it was our first flight with her without the luxury of our own row.

Sooo many bags!

Just chilling as we checked in

Isla breakfast stop

Sleeping in the airport

She did great though.  Ever since she started rolling over, she wants to sleep in her stomach and so it has been difficult to get her to fall asleep while holding her.  It took a few minutes of screaming,  but she settled in and her and Caleb slept a good amount of the flight.

Naptime!

Charlotte was crazy busy when we arrived and with a short layover, we hurried to our gate. The flight to Bermuda was barely half full and we got upgraded! Woo hoo!  It was perfect because we got a nice meal and wine,  plus wide seats.  That flight it was my turn and Isla settled in easier and slept most of the flight while Caleb and I took turns eating. 

First class baby!

Checking out the cockpit!

We arrived early and cleared customs quickly.  Then we had to take COVID tests and head to our Airbnb and quarantine until our tests came back. We arranged a taxi with our host ahead of time and off we went. The turquoise waters were greeting us as soon as we left the airport. 

The rental I found was on the complete opposite side of the island from the airport,  so it took about 45 minutes to get there. It was a more residential area,  which we thought would be cool, but we were also sold by the views it offered. 

Ride from the airport

Another nap!

Pink sand beaches from the window

In the few times we have traveled with Isla, we have started to learn what works best.  No shared walls, outdoor space and/or separate space for us while she naps half the day.  The pool was a bonus,  but I didn't realize the water would be much too cold to use it. So we probably overpaid since I was looking only for pool rentals, but again the views were worth it.

While Chicago was having unseasonable warmth, Bermuda was getting some serious wind.  Gusts of 40+ mph and with the views, came the elevation and wide open space for it to travel through! We made the best of it the first few days, but it sure was blustery!

Views from our room

Wasting no time hanging outside

Selfies with the views!

Bouncy baby!

Our first night sunset

Our host had told us that due to the holiday, most places would be closed both Christmas and the day after. So they helped us order and pick up groceries before we arrived, which was a lifesaver.

That evening we walked around the neighborhood,  cooked some dinner and enjoyed the ocean breezes.

Christmas dinner- fresh fish and veggies from our hosts' garden

Day 2: Sunday, December 26, 2021

We knew today most places would be closed, so it would be an exploratory day. Bermuda doesn't allow visitors to rent cars, which was one of our hesitations about going there. Although renting a car is a pain, there is some ease it provides when you have a baby.  We also quickly discovered that many of the roads don't have sidewalks. So we spent most of the trip walking down the shoulder of roads with our baby.  Luckily traffic was light! It was on the wrong side of the road though, so we had to keep on our toes!

Enjoying the views and coffee

Heading out on a walk

Checking out plant life

Shoulder walking

Colorful buildings and Christmas decor

The coast was just down the street

Cute, VERY small town of Somerset Village

Cute shoreside cottage and moon gate

Checking out the marine life at Watford Bridge

Haha- from Scotland Distillery to Bermuda bridge with baby
Love that this first photo is on the island of Isla!

Views of Somerset Island from Watford Bridge

Love these :-)

Selfies from the bridge

Our airbnb from the front

Trying to darken naptime

Naptime not going very well

Breakfast on the patio-
the furniture blew to the edge!

The island has an old railroad trail that is now a biking and walking trail.  It runs the whole island,  something like 18 of the 22 miles across. In the afternoon, we decided to explore the sections nearest us, which had beautiful lookout points of the bay and an old fort.

Railway trail

Art on the trail

Great views!

We got so many comments/compliments
all week on her shades!

Trail to the Fort,
good thing we didn't have the stroller

Pretty funny

Great views from Fort Scaur

Started raining!

Beautiful lizard we found on the trail!

Isla had a few on the go naps and we also spent time at the house- cooking and relaxing. 

Power nap!

We tried to catch the sunset at Long Bay Beach, but were a bit late. Still a nice evening walk, though it got dark quick on our way home and started raining! Good thing we had our rain jackets!

Loves her Daddy!

Can't get over these views!

Watching football while Isla sleeps

All smiles at Long Bay Beach for sunset

Day 3: Monday,  December 27, 2021

By Monday we were ready to really explore.  We found a few places for potential breakfast and headed out.  Unfortunately, most places were still closed! I guess most Bermudians took the holiday days off post holiday.

The liquor store was open though, so we did get some snacks and restock our beer supply. Then we ate at our place before heading north to the Dockyard area. It was about a 3 mile walk,  with very few sidewalks, but beautiful views the entire way.

Not loving the jacket

Liquor store shopping!

This outfit!

Out strollin

Accessorizing 

Taking the shoulder the whole way!

Windy coast!

Beach stops!

Windy roads and beautiful water

Man of war jellies!

Glass beach from above

We wanted to check out the Brewery- Dockyard Brewing at the Frog and Onion Pub. We were also excited to go mini golfing. The reviews were great- the stitch being that each hole was a replica of a famous real course hole. However, their website said they were only open on weekends in the off-season. Dang!

We had a delicious lunch and brews, Isla fell asleep,  so we walked around and decided to take a peek at the mini golf place.  They were open! So we decided to play.  It was crazy windy, but that just added to the fun.  And Isla woke up as we started,  so she got in on the fun. I lost terribly to these cuties though. I definitely need work on my putting game!

Entering Dockyard area

Catamaran and old forts turned stores

Beer ahead says the sidewalk!

Sitting outside at the brewery, despite the wind

Burger and cheeseboard

I have to sleep here?

Fun golf- very literal name!

We skipped the last two holes so we could go and feed her, she was a really good sport about the game delaying her meal!

The ice cream shop was closed, but the pastry shop nearby had Gelato and coffee.  Perfect ending to our time in Dockyard.  We called a taxi,  which was not very easy to do, and took the short ride back that way. 

Gelato!

Waiting for our taxi

Rooster and old fort walls

Trying to keep the baby asleep on bumpy roads

Photo from the baby monitor. Guess she's up now!

The grocery store was also still closed today,  but luckily we still had some chicken and despite the wind,  Caleb was able to get the charcoal grill going and we had another delicious home cooked meal. 

That smile, though!

Grillin'

Day 4: Tuesday,  December 28, 2021

The wind started letting up today and we were itching to explore more.  We decided to hit the rail trail again and make our way down to the famous pink sand beaches on the south shore.

Playtime outside with picture perfect clouds

Ready for a day out!

Colorful houses

Rail trail

World's smallest drawbridge- Somerset Bridge

We had every intention of making some stops along the way for food and Isla breaks,  but still not much was open. With it being the off-season and the holidays,  many places had signs that said closed until sometime in January.  Good thing we were just here for some fresh air and quality time together!!

Farmland

Stroller naps

With the wind dying down and the sun out, it was a beautiful warm tropical day! The rail trail merged with big roads and turned into dirt paths sometimes.  So navigating was again a bit complicated.  We had to bring the stroller because not only did it come in handy for naps, but it doubled as a car seat for potential taxi rides. It was a pain sometimes pushing along the side of the road and the wheels were not made for off-roading.

Rail rail turns on us

We did our best to navigate when we no longer had a trail or sidewalks and the sights were so worth it. We stopped at Church Bay Beach and were the only ones there! Then when we got to The Reefs Resort, we decided to eat there in case we couldn't find somewhere that was open.  The views were beautiful and the wahoo sandwich and tacos were fantastic.  The cold beer was also welcomed!

Isla lunchtime with amazing views of Church's Bay

We're getting pretty good at on-the-go changes

Church's Bay Beach

Lunch at the Reef's Club

Windy and beautiful lunch views

Mmm fresh fish

The beach at the resort...clouds blowing in

More beaches along the coast

Neat house architecture..this road said it went thru, but it didn't.
Guess we're just here for the sites!

Then we just had another 20 minutes or so walk until we made it to Horseshoe Bay- one of their most famous pink sand beaches. Since there was no sidewalk along most of South Shore road, as soon as we got to the Fairmont, we used their service drive to wall down to the beach. The hotel is currently closed for renovations, so when we got to the beach the fence to the public area was locked. It was a long trek back the way we came to get to the public entrance. So up and over the fence went me and the backpack, then the sleeping baby in the stroller and finally Caleb. And finally our destination was in reach.

Fence we had to traverse

Got my feet guys!

Clouds and wind had rolled in and it was very quiet on the beach. Fine by us! We walked up and down and Isla kicked and smiled along with us. Until it was time to eat. We tried to find a spot to post up and the wind was blowing sand around- great timing! So she ate at a bench in the parking lot while we tried to get ahold of our host for a ride back. 

Pink sand!

Horseshoe Bay Beach

Love them!

On the way back to our rental, Caleb got dropped off at the grocery store and restocked our fridge while I went back to let Isla nap. Then we cooked and relaxed with the first calm wind night on our patio. 

Each night got increasingly worse in terms of Isla's sleep. Sleep training went out the window in the shared studio space. It seemed like her pack and play was uncomfortable. She was likely overtired daily from napping on the go. And then not only would she get night time feeds, but then those turned into cuddles. All the wrong things. Hoping we can get back on track quickly when we return home! But for now we enjoyed the cuddles!

Day 5: Wednesday, December 29, 2021

One of the COVID requirements for Bermuda is beside your pre-departure test and your arrival test, you have to take a test on Day 4 of your stay, which for us was today. So we had to go to the city of Hamilton and luckily there was a ferry stop a few blocks away that took us directly there. Since we were in a residential area, the times of the ferries were more like commuter times, 8am there and 4pm back. So we planned for a full day. 

Ferry coming in!

Isla loved her first boat ride and since one of the ports was skipped due to construction, it was a quick 20 minute ride.

Windy and sunny this way!

Much better!

Colorful city of Hamilton

Once in Hamilton, we got some coffee, quiche and a pastry from a French bakery to eat while we sat by the bay. Then we walked around and headed to the COVID testing spot. We decided to get in line early as the line kept growing. We didn't realize they weren't open until 10am though, so waited about an hour and once they opened it went super quick. Isla napped in her stroller and afterwards we walked around and got a feel for the area.

Hunting down a Christmas ornament is always on the top of my list when we walk around cities. Bermuda is expensive, so thankfully that's all the shopping we needed to do! I swear when we walked by the toy store, Isla let out a squeal. She is getting quite the personality!

Leaving the French bakery

Walking around the habor

Beautiful colorful buildings on Front Street

Queen Elizabeth Park-
where we took turns hanging during the COVID test wait

Love Christmas decor in warm places

Small town, enjoying the few sights!

We stopped to get lunch at Devil's Isle, but they had run out of gas and they said to come back in a few hours. So we decided we would take a walk to some beach parks up the coast. We walked through some neighborhoods, past some beautiful houses and expertly manicured gardens. But eventually the sidewalks ran out. With only shoulders and lots of traffic, it just didn't make sense to keep trying to navigate there. Frustrating. It really is not a good island for walking and since you can't rent a car, moving around the island with a baby is tough! We didn't try the bus system, which could've been an option.

Our potential lunch spot

Views down to the water

Pub seating on a bus

Colorful alleyways

Beautiful houses in the neighborhood

Ordering some food at Island cafe on our walk.
Awesome sandwiches!

Back in town, we found a great park with an ice cream stand and let Isla loose! She had a ball grabbing her feet and making faces at us. Her raspberries are turning into fullout spit fests. It's amazing to watch her grow and learn new things!

On the go blowout means getting creative
with diaper changing stations!

Good thing we have the small stroller!

Cruising down Front Street

Aptly named stop- Meltdown time.
This was post lunch #2 for Isla

Rocking her summer outfit

Made it to Victoria Park

Ordering some ice cream!

Chillin'

Working on my perfecting her raspberries!

Ice cream in a bubble waffle- made fresh- yum!

Feet and toys- oh joy!

Cuteness overload!

After the park, we took a walk up to Fort Hamilton and saw the views over the city while Isla napped. Then we made it to lunch at Devil's Isle before catching the 4:10pm ferry back to where we were staying on Somerset Island. Isla was a bit overtired at that point and Caleb had to calm her down and then hold her for awhile when we got home while she slept.

Heading up to Fort Hamilton

Fort Hamilton views

Not loving being in the stroller during lunch

My beer and lunch are so big!

Looking for another changing station!

Isla setting some changing records!

Pre COVID ferries were plentiful, right now, not so much!

Until tomorrow Hamilton!

Caleb settling down Isla on the ferry

For dinner, we ordered takeout from a Roti place just in town. It was delicious and easy! Isla must have been exhausted because she went to bed earlier then usual and was pretty fussy throughout the night.

Day 6: Thursday, December 30, 2021

Our last full day, it went so quick! Not only did we plan this trip quick, but the COVID guidelines are also changing quickly. Whereas a few weeks ago, you just needed a negative COVID test within 3 days of returning to the US, now it had to be within 24 hours! Which meant we needed another COVID test today to leave tomorrow.

Our plan was to do the same thing we did yesterday, but after our test, leave Hamilton to explore some beaches or the Crystal Caves. While we were getting ready that morning, Caleb kept commenting on how warm Isla felt. Sure enough, she had a low grade fever of 100.8. She was in a decent mood, but we were worried as this was her first fever! We had to get our tests to get home, so we gave her Tylenol and headed to the ferry. 

Bumpy walk to the ferry

Ferry nap!

Hanging in Queen Elizabeth Park for a feed
while Dad waits in line

What fever?

We took turns waiting in line until the testing center opened up. It was quick enough that we were able to hop of the 10:15am ferry back. There wasn't one that got us close to where we were staying, but it took us to Dockyard, which was a 3 mile walk back. On the way back we stopped at Woody's to try their recommended fish sandwiches- delicious!

Glass beach

First swing!

Coastal meal!

She's upset I turned her away from
the garbage can catching her eye

Some of the walk had a path- well maybe a less used road

Little mini beaches along the way

Stopping for some sammy takeout

Isla couldn't wait for the sammys

Love this water!

Fish sammys from Woody's- so good!

Isla was in good spirits and her fever came down quickly. We took an afternoon walk to some nearby beaches and picked up some groceries for dinner. Then we watched the sunset and had a yummy last dinner while she rested.

Stylin' and bouncing

Snuggle naps are the best part of vaycay

Cambridge Beach Resort- check out that wind!

Closed restaurant all to ourselves

Just before sunset

Last sunset at our rental!

Evening snuggles-
she's really playing up the sick card!

Moved her off me into the bed, so cozy!

Delicious dinner with a sleeping baby nearby.
She must have been really sleepy if our
 chatter didn't wake her

Day 7: Friday, December 31, 2021

We woke up to another beautiful day! Today we just lounged around, packed and hung out. Then off to the airport we went for our 4 PM flight

Sunrise lounging

Gonna miss these views from my bouncer!

Some last photos of our place

Views everywhere!

I mentioned we had a studio...
did I mention I could touch the bed and stove at the same time? :-)

Off the airport!

Airport baby

The trek home was a long one with a 3 hour layover this time in Charlotte. Isla was a champ though, sleeping the entire 2+ hour first flight, hanging out and watching college football on our layover and then it was pretty much bedtime for our second flight.

We joked many times- traveling with Isla is not any less fun- just different. Takes a different sort of planning and problem solving! Had we not had her with us, we would've saw the whole island- renting bikes, scooters, burning the midnight oil. A trip to Bermuda definitely looks different with her, but is wonderful in so many other ways.

This trip was important for so many reasons. We want to keep sharing our love for travel with Isla. We needed some R&R- though sleep is still tough- we did get a break from work and home chores. And most of all we needed some time together. The days, weeks and months go by faster than ever. A week together just enjoying time with one another- smiling, laughing, baby snuggles, exploring- is everything. 

Someday we will take her back here, strap her on the back of a bike and the three of us will see everything. But for right now, Bermuda and this week together was just what we needed!